part 1: Ecce Minifig.
Intro and character types.
B&B concentrates on the fantasy/castle/knights and dragons aspect of roleplaying and bricks; later I'll work on the pulp/modern/SciFi stuff. Needless to say, it will use an entirely different character creation.
This, however, is how you set up a minifig character for B&B. Remember. This is not aminiature representing a person -you are playing an actual brick minifig. Read the earlier B&B post for details, or if you dont know about minifigs. Go on and do it now. Really, you'll thank me for it when you become a minifig obsessed collecter, although your disposable time and cash won't thank me, no, not at all. Bwaaa ha haaaa !
- Decide if your character is going to be a fighter or a person. A fighter hits stuff and shoots stuff, and wears armor and rides horses and dragons and spiked rotating saw blade battle chariots and the like. People do either other specialized stuff, or not much of anything. People can include, Townsfolk,wizards, rogues, (non-martial) children, healers, and the the like. Everyone can fight, but fighters are better at it. A fighter minifig needs a torso with some kind of armor printed on it. Everything else is up for grabs if you are a person. Pick out head, hair and legs that you like. People can choose any kind of hat not specific to fighters or wizards. Note: a hat is different from a helmet. A helmet has an armor value, a hat does not.
- If you choose fighter, you are finished with this step; go to choosing skills, you lucky dog…..
- If you choose to be a person, you have some choices, you lucky dog. keep reading.
- If you are a person, choose what type of you are
People can come in a variety of types: for now, this means wizards, townsfolk and, oh heck, yeah call them , rogues. These descriptions are currently brief, but will be filled out with more of those, whattayacallem rules, discussing why these distinctions matter.
Wizards have to have the beard piece, (but a beard printed on his head will do in a pinch), or wear a wizard appropriate hat. Note that females can be wizards by virtue of either an add-on beard, or a hat. Most prefer the hat, but hey, it's a very accepting world. Wizards have a base move of 10.
- A mage can only carry a dagger or staff .
- Only a wizard may take the skills Magician, Necromancer or Summoner.
- A mage may discard a staff, wand, cape, cowl, hood or hat to absorb one hit (each).
- A mage may make a power attack if at punching range (see details).
From the movement and ciombat sections, here for clarity while this is being written
Wizards activate as normal figures, but require an extra activation point be allocated for each item or spell used in any given turn. A character wizard may be unactivated for movement and still cast a spell, if activation points are assigned for that purpose. Note that there are consequences when a mage is not activated (if a non player) or not activated for movement (if a character).
Magic spells require activation points to cast over and above activating the wizardy type.; this can be accomplished by expending gems. Potions and scrolls are single use and only require the user to be activated.
- Only a rogue can take the skill Unobtrusiveness.
- They can use two daggers, or a weapon and a dagger to add a +2 to their CR. They may discard a weapon to block a hit.
- If they have access to the uber-cool custom rapier, they can count it as a 2-Handed weapon.
- They gain a +1 when attacking at throwing or punching range.Townies
- If they carry a tool, they are at +2 for any things that they do that can reasonably use the tool for. Some vague guidelines are listed in the skills section, but don't sweat it too much.
- Townies can’t use armor, but can discard a hat to cancel one hit, and a tool to cancel another.
- Townies also have the option of taking a knockout at the end of any combat round.
- They can use most weapons, but at seriously reduced efficiency.
Fighters are a bit different from people (yeah, big surprise there). Fighters are identified by printed armor on their torso, which gives them a base CR of +1 for all fighting at any range. Only fighters may take the veteran or warrior skills.
- The printed armor (on the torso, remember?) blocks one hit. Note this by putting a one stud plate (aka a pip or bump) on the figures head. Thereafter, it no longer stops hits, although a fighter always retains the +1 CR bonus.
- A fighter can use two handed weapons (big axes, big swords, and charging lance) to gain a +2 CR instead of +1, and score TWO hits. Note that unless a skill says otherwise, this precludes a shield or second weapon. A charging lance attack does two hits if the wielder is mounted and has moved at least 6 pips.
- A fighter can use a two part helmet to increase CR by +2 and block two hits. A two part helmet includes any helmet with a visor OR plume OR a stud attachment. When hit once, remove the piece (plume or visor of any type) or add a stud to it. After another hit, it is removed.
- A fighter adds +1 to hits when rolling a natural six in HTH combat. Real goreheads can have this double the number of hits instead. Watch out for the guy with the zweihander !
- A horse ridden by a fighter may charge, adding 1d6 to its unmodified (do not subtract armor) move, but it must be in a straight line. The rider must attack any figure that the horse would collide with, at the maximum range of his weapon or the foot minifigs weapon, whichever is greater. If the foot figure is broken or knocked out, the rider may continue, if not, the rider stops at the maximum range of the foot minifigs weapon.
Next up: skills !